Beauty biology map

Epidermal cell turnover

divide in the basal layer and migrate outward, differentiating and finally shedding as . Kallikrein proteases and corneodesmosin degradation govern , and retinoid signalling is the best-characterised transcriptional lever on this programme.

100%
Epidermal cell turnoverKRT14KRT10CDSNKLK5KLK7RARGFormation of the cornifie…Signalling by retinoic ac…KeratinizationEpidermal cell turnoverDesquamationKeratinocyte proliferation

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IngredientMoleculeTargetGenePathwayProcessOutcome
Text alternative for this network
  • Epidermal cell turnover associated with KRT14 — high confidence
  • Epidermal cell turnover associated with KRT10 — high confidence
  • Epidermal cell turnover associated with CDSN — high confidence
  • Epidermal cell turnover associated with KLK5 — medium confidence
  • Epidermal cell turnover associated with KLK7 — medium confidence
  • Epidermal cell turnover associated with RARG — high confidence
  • KRT14 participates in Formation of the cornified envelope — high confidence
  • KRT10 participates in Formation of the cornified envelope — high confidence
  • CDSN participates in Formation of the cornified envelope — high confidence
  • KLK5 participates in Formation of the cornified envelope — medium confidence
  • KLK7 participates in Formation of the cornified envelope — medium confidence
  • RARG participates in Formation of the cornified envelope — high confidence
  • KRT14 participates in Signalling by retinoic acid — high confidence
  • KRT10 participates in Signalling by retinoic acid — high confidence
  • CDSN participates in Signalling by retinoic acid — high confidence
  • KLK5 participates in Signalling by retinoic acid — medium confidence
  • KLK7 participates in Signalling by retinoic acid — medium confidence
  • RARG participates in Signalling by retinoic acid — high confidence
  • KRT14 participates in Keratinization — high confidence
  • KRT10 participates in Keratinization — high confidence
  • CDSN participates in Keratinization — high confidence
  • KLK5 participates in Keratinization — medium confidence
  • KLK7 participates in Keratinization — medium confidence
  • RARG participates in Keratinization — high confidence
  • Formation of the cornified envelope associated with Epidermal cell turnover — high confidence
  • Signalling by retinoic acid associated with Epidermal cell turnover — high confidence
  • Keratinization associated with Epidermal cell turnover — high confidence
  • Formation of the cornified envelope associated with Desquamation — high confidence
  • Signalling by retinoic acid associated with Desquamation — high confidence
  • Keratinization associated with Desquamation — high confidence
  • Formation of the cornified envelope associated with Keratinocyte proliferation — high confidence
  • Signalling by retinoic acid associated with Keratinocyte proliferation — high confidence
  • Keratinization associated with Keratinocyte proliferation — high confidence

Genes & proteins

  • KRT14high confidence

    Keratin 14

  • KRT10high confidence

    Keratin 10

  • CDSNhigh confidence

    Corneodesmosin

  • KLK5medium confidence

    Kallikrein related peptidase 5

  • KLK7medium confidence

    Kallikrein related peptidase 7

  • RARGhigh confidence

    Retinoic acid receptor gamma

Pathways

  • Formation of the cornified envelope

    high confidence

    Terminal programme.

    Reactome R-HSA-6809371

  • Signalling by retinoic acid

    high confidence

    Transcriptional control of .

    Reactome R-HSA-5362517

  • Keratinization

    high confidence

    expression and assembly.

    Reactome R-HSA-6805567

Ingredients studied here

Processes

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Research on this topic

ReviewCosmetics (review) · 2021

Cosmetic retinoid esters: an assessment of available public evidence

Notes that public independent data on hydroxypinacolone retinoate are limited relative to retinol and retinoic acid.

Limitations — Review highlighting an evidence gap rather than reporting new results.

ReviewClinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology (review) · 2018

Urea in dermatology: hydration and keratolysis by concentration

Summarises concentration-dependent behaviour of urea, humectant at low percentages and keratolytic at higher percentages.

Limitations — Narrative review without quantitative synthesis.

In-vitroInternational Journal of Cosmetic Science · 2018

Hydroxypinacolone retinoate: receptor binding without prior conversion

Reported direct retinoic acid receptor binding for the ester, in contrast to retinol which requires cutaneous conversion.

Limitations — Binding assays only; no controlled human comparison against retinol; identifier not verified during curation.

Identifier not curated — search Europe PMCHydroxypinacolone retinoate · Retinol
HumanJournal of Cosmetic Dermatology · 2018n = 40

Mandelic acid versus glycolic acid peels for facial pigmentation: a comparative study

Reported similar pigmentation improvement between the two acids, with fewer irritation events in the mandelic acid arm.

Limitations — Small, unblinded, investigator-graded; identifier not verified during curation.

Identifier not curated — search Europe PMCMandelic acid · Glycolic acid
Meta-analysisCochrane-style systematic review · 2016

Benzoyl peroxide, alone and combined, in inflammatory acne: a systematic review

Reported consistent reduction in inflammatory lesion counts versus vehicle, with dose-related local irritation.

Limitations — Heterogeneous trials and concentrations; identifier not verified during curation.

ReviewJournal of Investigative Dermatology (review) · 2015

Retinoic acid receptor expression and retinoid signalling in human skin

Summarises RAR/RXR heterodimer signalling as the transcriptional mechanism of retinoid action in epidermis and dermis.

Limitations — Narrative review; mechanistic focus without effect-size synthesis.

Identifier not curated — search Europe PMCRetinol · All-trans retinoic acid · Retinaldehyde
ReviewJournal of Cosmetic Dermatology (review) · 2010

Salicylic acid: mechanism of action in the pilosebaceous unit

Describes lipophilic partitioning into sebaceous follicles and reduced corneocyte cohesion as the principal described mechanisms.

Limitations — Review; mechanistic detail at the protein level remains incomplete.

In-vitroJournal of Applied Microbiology · 2004

Oxidative decomposition of benzoyl peroxide in skin and follicular microbiology

Reported rapid decomposition to benzoic acid with radical-mediated, non-selective antibacterial activity and no observed resistance selection.

Limitations — Microbiological models; identifier not verified during curation.

In-vitroSkin Pharmacology and Physiology · 2003

Salicylic acid keratolysis and corneocyte cohesion in human stratum corneum

Reported reduced corneocyte cohesion and increased desquamation with salicylic acid exposure in isolated stratum corneum.

Limitations — Ex-vivo tissue only; identifier not verified during curation.

HumanDermatologic Surgery · 2001n = 20

Glycolic acid peels and epidermal thickness: a controlled split-face study

Reported increased epidermal thickness and improved texture scores on the treated side after a series of glycolic acid applications.

Limitations — Small sample, investigator-graded endpoints; identifier not verified during curation.

ReviewDermatology (review) · 1999

Retinaldehyde: cutaneous conversion to retinoic acid and tolerability in human skin

Summarises evidence that retinaldehyde is oxidised in skin to retinoic acid, with reported tolerability intermediate between retinol and tretinoin.

Limitations — Narrative review; identifier not verified during curation.

Identifier not curated — search Europe PMCRetinaldehyde · Retinol · All-trans retinoic acid
In-vitroSkin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology · 1998

Retinoid receptor selectivity of adapalene and downstream keratinocyte transcription

Reported preferential RAR-beta and RAR-gamma binding with associated changes in keratinocyte differentiation markers.

Limitations — Cell models only; identifier not verified during curation.

HumanJournal of the American Academy of Dermatology · 1996n = 41

Alpha hydroxy acids: effects on stratum corneum cohesion and epidermal thickness

Reported reduced corneocyte cohesion and increased epidermal thickness after repeated glycolic acid application.

Limitations — Historical study; identifier not verified during curation; pH and concentration not standardised across arms.

Randomised controlled trialBritish Journal of Dermatology · 1996n = 297

Adapalene 0.1% gel versus tretinoin 0.025% gel in acne vulgaris: a randomised trial

Reported comparable lesion-count reduction with adapalene and tretinoin, with less irritation in the adapalene group.

Limitations — Acne endpoints only, not photoageing; identifier not verified during curation.

Identifier not curated — search Europe PMCAdapalene · All-trans retinoic acid

Community evidence

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