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A map of beauty biology

48 curated ingredients and 6 biology maps. Every relationship shown anywhere in Skinceptor is traceable to a public database record or a published study.

Biology map

Skin barrier function

The stratum corneum is a brick-and-mortar arrangement of corneocytes embedded in lamellar lipids composed chiefly of ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids. Filaggrin proteolysis supplies the natural moisturising factors that hold water inside corneocytes, and barrier integrity is usually measured indirectly as transepidermal water loss.

7 genes · 4 pathways · 16 ingredients

Biology map

Photoaging & collagen degradation

Ultraviolet exposure drives reactive oxygen species formation, activates AP-1 and NF-kB signalling, and increases matrix metalloproteinase expression while reducing procollagen synthesis. The net result described in the literature is fragmented dermal collagen and elastin. UV filters remain the intervention with the strongest supporting evidence.

7 genes · 4 pathways · 13 ingredients

Biology map

Melanogenesis & hyperpigmentation

Melanocytes synthesise melanin inside melanosomes through tyrosinase-catalysed oxidation of tyrosine, under transcriptional control of MITF. Melanosomes are then transferred to keratinocytes. Most cosmetic pigmentation research targets tyrosinase activity, melanosome transfer, or upstream signalling such as plasmin-dependent stimulation.

7 genes · 3 pathways · 9 ingredients

Biology map

Hair follicle cycling

Hair follicles cycle through anagen (growth), catagen (regression) and telogen (rest). Wnt/beta-catenin signalling and dermal papilla growth factors sustain anagen, while androgen signalling through the androgen receptor and 5-alpha reductase drives follicular miniaturisation in pattern hair loss.

7 genes · 4 pathways · 5 ingredients

Biology map

Epidermal cell turnover

Keratinocytes divide in the basal layer and migrate outward, differentiating and finally shedding as corneocytes. Kallikrein proteases and corneodesmosin degradation govern desquamation, and retinoid signalling is the best-characterised transcriptional lever on this programme.

6 genes · 3 pathways · 8 ingredients

Biology map

Oxidative stress in skin

UV radiation, pollution and normal metabolism generate reactive oxygen species. Cells buffer them with enzymatic systems (superoxide dismutase, catalase, glutathione peroxidase) and small-molecule antioxidants, with the KEAP1-NRF2 axis coordinating the transcriptional response.

6 genes · 3 pathways · 10 ingredients

Ingredients

Niacinamide

Skin barrier

C6H6N2O · 122.12 g/mol

Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 involved in cellular metabolism as a precursor of NAD+. It has been studied for barrier-related, pigmentation-related and sebum-related endpoints in skin.

4 targets · 3 pathways

Retinol

Retinoid

C20H30O · 286.5 g/mol

Retinol is a vitamin A alcohol that cells can convert to retinaldehyde and then retinoic acid, the form that binds nuclear retinoic acid receptors and changes gene transcription.

4 targets · 3 pathways

All-trans retinoic acid

Retinoid

C20H28O2 · 300.4 g/mol

All-trans retinoic acid is the receptor-active retinoid metabolite. It is a regulated drug substance in many countries; it is included here for biological context only.

3 targets · 2 pathways

Retinaldehyde

Retinoid

C20H28O · 284.4 g/mol

Retinaldehyde sits one oxidation step closer to retinoic acid than retinol, and is studied as a cosmetic retinoid with the same receptor-mediated mechanism downstream.

2 targets · 1 pathways

Hyaluronic acid

Humectant

(C14H21NO11)n

Hyaluronic acid is a large glycosaminoglycan of the extracellular matrix. Molecular weight strongly affects how it behaves, and topical molecules are much larger than most skin-penetrating compounds.

3 targets · 2 pathways

Ceramide NP

Skin barrier

C34H67NO4 · 553.9 g/mol

Ceramide NP is a sphingolipid found in the stratum corneum lipid matrix. Ceramide composition is a well-described feature of barrier biology.

2 targets · 2 pathways

L-Ascorbic acid

Antioxidant

C6H8O6 · 176.12 g/mol

L-ascorbic acid is vitamin C: a water-soluble reducing agent and an essential cofactor for the prolyl and lysyl hydroxylases that mature collagen.

4 targets · 3 pathways

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate

Antioxidant

C6H6MgO9P · 289.39 g/mol

A phosphorylated, salt-stabilised vitamin C derivative studied as a more stable alternative to L-ascorbic acid. It requires enzymatic conversion to free ascorbate to act.

2 targets · 1 pathways

Tocopherol

Antioxidant

C29H50O2 · 430.7 g/mol

Alpha-tocopherol is a lipid-soluble vitamin E form that interrupts lipid peroxidation chain reactions in membranes.

2 targets · 1 pathways

Ferulic acid

Antioxidant

C10H10O4 · 194.18 g/mol

Ferulic acid is a plant phenolic acid studied both as an antioxidant and as a stabiliser in vitamin C and E formulations.

2 targets · 2 pathways

Resveratrol

Antioxidant

C14H12O3 · 228.24 g/mol

Resveratrol is a plant stilbene studied for sirtuin-related and antioxidant biology. Most reported skin effects come from cell or animal models.

3 targets · 2 pathways

Bakuchiol

Botanical

C18H24O · 256.4 g/mol

Bakuchiol is a meroterpene phenol studied as a retinoid-functional alternative. It is not structurally a retinoid but gene-expression overlap with retinoids has been reported.

2 targets · 1 pathways

Salicylic acid

Exfoliant

C7H6O3 · 138.12 g/mol

Salicylic acid is a lipophilic beta hydroxy acid that acts largely at the level of corneocyte cohesion and follicular keratin.

2 targets · 1 pathways

Glycolic acid

Exfoliant

C2H4O3 · 76.05 g/mol

Glycolic acid is the smallest alpha hydroxy acid. Its effects are strongly pH- and concentration-dependent and are chiefly described at the level of corneocyte adhesion.

2 targets · 1 pathways

Lactic acid

Exfoliant

C3H6O3 · 90.08 g/mol

Lactic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid that is also a natural moisturising factor component, so it is studied for both exfoliation and hydration endpoints.

2 targets · 2 pathways

Azelaic acid

Pigmentation

C9H16O4 · 188.22 g/mol

Azelaic acid is a nine-carbon dicarboxylic acid studied for pigmentation and inflammatory endpoints. It is a regulated medicine at higher strengths in several regions.

2 targets · 1 pathways

Kojic acid

Pigmentation

C6H6O4 · 142.11 g/mol

Kojic acid is a fungal metabolite that chelates the copper ions in the tyrosinase active site, an unusually well-characterised depigmenting mechanism in vitro.

2 targets · 1 pathways

Alpha-arbutin

Pigmentation

C12H16O7 · 272.25 g/mol

Arbutin is a glucosylated hydroquinone derivative studied as a tyrosinase inhibitor with slower release than free hydroquinone.

1 targets · 1 pathways

Tranexamic acid

Pigmentation

C8H15NO2 · 157.21 g/mol

Tranexamic acid is a lysine analogue that blocks plasminogen binding. It is studied topically for melasma-related pigmentation via plasmin-dependent signalling rather than direct tyrosinase inhibition.

2 targets · 2 pathways

Copper tripeptide-1

Peptide

C14H22CuN6O4 · 402 g/mol

Copper tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu) is a glycyl-histidyl-lysine peptide complexed with copper, studied for matrix gene-expression effects largely in cell and animal models.

3 targets · 2 pathways

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4

Peptide

C46H83N9O11 · 962.2 g/mol

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 is a lipidated fragment of the type I collagen propeptide sequence, studied as a matrix-signalling peptide.

2 targets · 1 pathways

Acetyl hexapeptide-8

Peptide

C34H60N14O12S · 888.99 g/mol

Acetyl hexapeptide-8 is a synthetic peptide modelled on a SNAP-25 sequence and studied for neuromuscular-signalling endpoints in vitro.

1 targets · 1 pathways

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1

Peptide

C32H59N5O5 · 593.85 g/mol

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 is a lipidated GHK peptide studied alongside copper peptides for matrix-related gene expression.

1 targets · 1 pathways

Zinc PCA

Mineral

C10H12N2O6Zn · 321.6 g/mol

Zinc PCA pairs zinc with pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, a natural moisturising factor component. It is studied for sebum-related and barrier-related endpoints.

2 targets · 1 pathways

Panthenol

Skin barrier

C9H19NO4 · 205.25 g/mol

Panthenol is the alcohol analogue of pantothenic acid and a precursor of coenzyme A. It is studied for barrier and irritation endpoints.

1 targets · 1 pathways

Asiaticoside

Botanical

C48H78O19 · 959.1 g/mol

Asiaticoside is a triterpenoid saponin from Centella asiatica studied for matrix synthesis and wound-related biology, mostly in animal and cell models.

2 targets · 2 pathways

Madecassoside

Botanical

C48H78O20 · 975.1 g/mol

Madecassoside is a Centella asiatica saponin studied for antioxidant and matrix-related endpoints in cell and animal models.

1 targets · 1 pathways

Melatonin

Antioxidant

C13H16N2O2 · 232.28 g/mol

Melatonin is an indoleamine with described receptor and antioxidant activity. Skin itself expresses melatonin-pathway enzymes, which is why it appears in cutaneous research.

3 targets · 2 pathways

Minoxidil

Hair biology

C9H15N5O · 209.25 g/mol

Minoxidil is a potassium-channel opener used as a regulated topical medicine for pattern hair loss. It is included for hair-follicle biology context, not as a cosmetic ingredient.

3 targets · 2 pathways

Caffeine

Hair biology

C8H10N4O2 · 194.19 g/mol

Caffeine is a methylxanthine and phosphodiesterase inhibitor studied in hair-follicle organ culture and in microcirculation-related cosmetic research.

2 targets · 2 pathways

Adenosine

Hair biology

C10H13N5O4 · 267.24 g/mol

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside and endogenous receptor agonist studied for dermal papilla signalling and wrinkle-related endpoints.

2 targets · 2 pathways

Biotin

Hair biology

C10H16N2O3S · 244.31 g/mol

Biotin is a vitamin cofactor for carboxylase enzymes. Deficiency affects hair and nails; supplementation in non-deficient people has limited supporting evidence.

2 targets · 2 pathways

Squalane

Skin barrier

C30H62 · 422.8 g/mol

Squalane is the saturated form of squalene, a lipid naturally present in human sebum. It is studied as an emollient and occlusive rather than a signalling molecule.

1 targets · 1 pathways

Cholesterol

Skin barrier

C27H46O · 386.7 g/mol

Cholesterol is one of the three lipid classes of the stratum corneum lamellae, alongside ceramides and free fatty acids.

2 targets · 2 pathways

Linoleic acid

Skin barrier

C18H32O2 · 280.4 g/mol

Linoleic acid is an essential polyunsaturated fatty acid required for acylceramide formation in the epidermal barrier.

2 targets · 2 pathways

Urea

Humectant

CH4N2O · 60.06 g/mol

Urea is a small natural moisturising factor component that is humectant at low concentrations and keratolytic at high concentrations.

2 targets · 2 pathways

Glycerin

Humectant

C3H8O3 · 92.09 g/mol

Glycerol is a small polyol humectant that also moves through aquaporin channels, linking it to keratinocyte water handling.

1 targets · 1 pathways

Allantoin

Skin barrier

C4H6N4O3 · 158.12 g/mol

Allantoin is a purine metabolite used as a soothing and keratolytic agent. Its cutaneous mechanism is less well characterised than its physical effects.

1 targets · 1 pathways

Epigallocatechin gallate

Antioxidant

C22H18O11 · 458.4 g/mol

EGCG is the major green tea catechin, studied for antioxidant and UV-response biology mainly in cell and animal models.

2 targets · 2 pathways

Alpha-lipoic acid

Antioxidant

C8H14O2S2 · 206.33 g/mol

Alpha-lipoic acid is a dithiol cofactor of mitochondrial dehydrogenase complexes and an amphipathic redox agent.

2 targets · 2 pathways

Coenzyme Q10

Antioxidant

C59H90O4 · 863.3 g/mol

Coenzyme Q10 is a lipid-soluble electron carrier of the mitochondrial respiratory chain and a membrane antioxidant.

1 targets · 2 pathways

Hydroxypinacolone retinoate

Retinoid

C26H38O3 · 398.6 g/mol

Hydroxypinacolone retinoate is a retinoic acid ester marketed as a cosmetic retinoid. Public mechanistic data are thinner than for retinol.

1 targets · 1 pathways

Beta-glucan

Botanical

(C6H10O5)n

Beta-glucans are polysaccharides recognised by innate immune receptors such as dectin-1, which is why they appear in soothing and barrier research.

1 targets · 1 pathways

Ectoin

Skin barrier

C6H10N2O2 · 142.16 g/mol

Ectoin is a bacterial compatible solute studied as a protein- and membrane-stabilising osmolyte in skin models.

1 targets · 1 pathways

GHK tripeptide

Peptide

C14H24N6O4 · 340.38 g/mol

GHK is a copper-binding tripeptide identified in human plasma, studied for matrix gene expression in fibroblast models.

2 targets · 1 pathways

Sodium PCA

Humectant

C5H6NNaO3 · 151.1 g/mol

Sodium PCA is the sodium salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, one of the most abundant natural moisturising factors generated from filaggrin.

2 targets · 1 pathways

Zinc oxide

Mineral

ZnO · 81.38 g/mol

Zinc oxide is an inorganic UV filter. Its protective mechanism is physical and chemical attenuation of UV photons rather than a biological pathway.

1 targets · 1 pathways

Hydroquinone

Pigmentation

C6H6O2 · 110.11 g/mol

Hydroquinone is a phenolic tyrosinase substrate analogue. It is restricted or prescription-only in many jurisdictions and is included for mechanistic context.

2 targets · 1 pathways