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A map of beauty biology
48 curated ingredients and 6 biology maps. Every relationship shown anywhere in Skinceptor is traceable to a public database record or a published study.
Biology map
Skin barrier function
The stratum corneum is a brick-and-mortar arrangement of corneocytes embedded in lamellar lipids composed chiefly of ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids. Filaggrin proteolysis supplies the natural moisturising factors that hold water inside corneocytes, and barrier integrity is usually measured indirectly as transepidermal water loss.
7 genes · 4 pathways · 16 ingredients
Biology map
Photoaging & collagen degradation
Ultraviolet exposure drives reactive oxygen species formation, activates AP-1 and NF-kB signalling, and increases matrix metalloproteinase expression while reducing procollagen synthesis. The net result described in the literature is fragmented dermal collagen and elastin. UV filters remain the intervention with the strongest supporting evidence.
7 genes · 4 pathways · 13 ingredients
Biology map
Melanogenesis & hyperpigmentation
Melanocytes synthesise melanin inside melanosomes through tyrosinase-catalysed oxidation of tyrosine, under transcriptional control of MITF. Melanosomes are then transferred to keratinocytes. Most cosmetic pigmentation research targets tyrosinase activity, melanosome transfer, or upstream signalling such as plasmin-dependent stimulation.
7 genes · 3 pathways · 9 ingredients
Biology map
Hair follicle cycling
Hair follicles cycle through anagen (growth), catagen (regression) and telogen (rest). Wnt/beta-catenin signalling and dermal papilla growth factors sustain anagen, while androgen signalling through the androgen receptor and 5-alpha reductase drives follicular miniaturisation in pattern hair loss.
7 genes · 4 pathways · 5 ingredients
Biology map
Epidermal cell turnover
Keratinocytes divide in the basal layer and migrate outward, differentiating and finally shedding as corneocytes. Kallikrein proteases and corneodesmosin degradation govern desquamation, and retinoid signalling is the best-characterised transcriptional lever on this programme.
6 genes · 3 pathways · 8 ingredients
Biology map
Oxidative stress in skin
UV radiation, pollution and normal metabolism generate reactive oxygen species. Cells buffer them with enzymatic systems (superoxide dismutase, catalase, glutathione peroxidase) and small-molecule antioxidants, with the KEAP1-NRF2 axis coordinating the transcriptional response.
6 genes · 3 pathways · 10 ingredients
Ingredients
Niacinamide
Skin barrierC6H6N2O · 122.12 g/mol
Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 involved in cellular metabolism as a precursor of NAD+. It has been studied for barrier-related, pigmentation-related and sebum-related endpoints in skin.
4 targets · 3 pathways
Retinol
RetinoidC20H30O · 286.5 g/mol
Retinol is a vitamin A alcohol that cells can convert to retinaldehyde and then retinoic acid, the form that binds nuclear retinoic acid receptors and changes gene transcription.
4 targets · 3 pathways
All-trans retinoic acid
RetinoidC20H28O2 · 300.4 g/mol
All-trans retinoic acid is the receptor-active retinoid metabolite. It is a regulated drug substance in many countries; it is included here for biological context only.
3 targets · 2 pathways
Retinaldehyde
RetinoidC20H28O · 284.4 g/mol
Retinaldehyde sits one oxidation step closer to retinoic acid than retinol, and is studied as a cosmetic retinoid with the same receptor-mediated mechanism downstream.
2 targets · 1 pathways
Hyaluronic acid
Humectant(C14H21NO11)n
Hyaluronic acid is a large glycosaminoglycan of the extracellular matrix. Molecular weight strongly affects how it behaves, and topical molecules are much larger than most skin-penetrating compounds.
3 targets · 2 pathways
Ceramide NP
Skin barrierC34H67NO4 · 553.9 g/mol
Ceramide NP is a sphingolipid found in the stratum corneum lipid matrix. Ceramide composition is a well-described feature of barrier biology.
2 targets · 2 pathways
L-Ascorbic acid
AntioxidantC6H8O6 · 176.12 g/mol
L-ascorbic acid is vitamin C: a water-soluble reducing agent and an essential cofactor for the prolyl and lysyl hydroxylases that mature collagen.
4 targets · 3 pathways
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate
AntioxidantC6H6MgO9P · 289.39 g/mol
A phosphorylated, salt-stabilised vitamin C derivative studied as a more stable alternative to L-ascorbic acid. It requires enzymatic conversion to free ascorbate to act.
2 targets · 1 pathways
Tocopherol
AntioxidantC29H50O2 · 430.7 g/mol
Alpha-tocopherol is a lipid-soluble vitamin E form that interrupts lipid peroxidation chain reactions in membranes.
2 targets · 1 pathways
Ferulic acid
AntioxidantC10H10O4 · 194.18 g/mol
Ferulic acid is a plant phenolic acid studied both as an antioxidant and as a stabiliser in vitamin C and E formulations.
2 targets · 2 pathways
Resveratrol
AntioxidantC14H12O3 · 228.24 g/mol
Resveratrol is a plant stilbene studied for sirtuin-related and antioxidant biology. Most reported skin effects come from cell or animal models.
3 targets · 2 pathways
Bakuchiol
BotanicalC18H24O · 256.4 g/mol
Bakuchiol is a meroterpene phenol studied as a retinoid-functional alternative. It is not structurally a retinoid but gene-expression overlap with retinoids has been reported.
2 targets · 1 pathways
Salicylic acid
ExfoliantC7H6O3 · 138.12 g/mol
Salicylic acid is a lipophilic beta hydroxy acid that acts largely at the level of corneocyte cohesion and follicular keratin.
2 targets · 1 pathways
Glycolic acid
ExfoliantC2H4O3 · 76.05 g/mol
Glycolic acid is the smallest alpha hydroxy acid. Its effects are strongly pH- and concentration-dependent and are chiefly described at the level of corneocyte adhesion.
2 targets · 1 pathways
Lactic acid
ExfoliantC3H6O3 · 90.08 g/mol
Lactic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid that is also a natural moisturising factor component, so it is studied for both exfoliation and hydration endpoints.
2 targets · 2 pathways
Azelaic acid
PigmentationC9H16O4 · 188.22 g/mol
Azelaic acid is a nine-carbon dicarboxylic acid studied for pigmentation and inflammatory endpoints. It is a regulated medicine at higher strengths in several regions.
2 targets · 1 pathways
Kojic acid
PigmentationC6H6O4 · 142.11 g/mol
Kojic acid is a fungal metabolite that chelates the copper ions in the tyrosinase active site, an unusually well-characterised depigmenting mechanism in vitro.
2 targets · 1 pathways
Alpha-arbutin
PigmentationC12H16O7 · 272.25 g/mol
Arbutin is a glucosylated hydroquinone derivative studied as a tyrosinase inhibitor with slower release than free hydroquinone.
1 targets · 1 pathways
Tranexamic acid
PigmentationC8H15NO2 · 157.21 g/mol
Tranexamic acid is a lysine analogue that blocks plasminogen binding. It is studied topically for melasma-related pigmentation via plasmin-dependent signalling rather than direct tyrosinase inhibition.
2 targets · 2 pathways
Copper tripeptide-1
PeptideC14H22CuN6O4 · 402 g/mol
Copper tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu) is a glycyl-histidyl-lysine peptide complexed with copper, studied for matrix gene-expression effects largely in cell and animal models.
3 targets · 2 pathways
Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4
PeptideC46H83N9O11 · 962.2 g/mol
Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 is a lipidated fragment of the type I collagen propeptide sequence, studied as a matrix-signalling peptide.
2 targets · 1 pathways
Acetyl hexapeptide-8
PeptideC34H60N14O12S · 888.99 g/mol
Acetyl hexapeptide-8 is a synthetic peptide modelled on a SNAP-25 sequence and studied for neuromuscular-signalling endpoints in vitro.
1 targets · 1 pathways
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1
PeptideC32H59N5O5 · 593.85 g/mol
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 is a lipidated GHK peptide studied alongside copper peptides for matrix-related gene expression.
1 targets · 1 pathways
Zinc PCA
MineralC10H12N2O6Zn · 321.6 g/mol
Zinc PCA pairs zinc with pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, a natural moisturising factor component. It is studied for sebum-related and barrier-related endpoints.
2 targets · 1 pathways
Panthenol
Skin barrierC9H19NO4 · 205.25 g/mol
Panthenol is the alcohol analogue of pantothenic acid and a precursor of coenzyme A. It is studied for barrier and irritation endpoints.
1 targets · 1 pathways
Asiaticoside
BotanicalC48H78O19 · 959.1 g/mol
Asiaticoside is a triterpenoid saponin from Centella asiatica studied for matrix synthesis and wound-related biology, mostly in animal and cell models.
2 targets · 2 pathways
Madecassoside
BotanicalC48H78O20 · 975.1 g/mol
Madecassoside is a Centella asiatica saponin studied for antioxidant and matrix-related endpoints in cell and animal models.
1 targets · 1 pathways
Melatonin
AntioxidantC13H16N2O2 · 232.28 g/mol
Melatonin is an indoleamine with described receptor and antioxidant activity. Skin itself expresses melatonin-pathway enzymes, which is why it appears in cutaneous research.
3 targets · 2 pathways
Minoxidil
Hair biologyC9H15N5O · 209.25 g/mol
Minoxidil is a potassium-channel opener used as a regulated topical medicine for pattern hair loss. It is included for hair-follicle biology context, not as a cosmetic ingredient.
3 targets · 2 pathways
Caffeine
Hair biologyC8H10N4O2 · 194.19 g/mol
Caffeine is a methylxanthine and phosphodiesterase inhibitor studied in hair-follicle organ culture and in microcirculation-related cosmetic research.
2 targets · 2 pathways
Adenosine
Hair biologyC10H13N5O4 · 267.24 g/mol
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside and endogenous receptor agonist studied for dermal papilla signalling and wrinkle-related endpoints.
2 targets · 2 pathways
Biotin
Hair biologyC10H16N2O3S · 244.31 g/mol
Biotin is a vitamin cofactor for carboxylase enzymes. Deficiency affects hair and nails; supplementation in non-deficient people has limited supporting evidence.
2 targets · 2 pathways
Squalane
Skin barrierC30H62 · 422.8 g/mol
Squalane is the saturated form of squalene, a lipid naturally present in human sebum. It is studied as an emollient and occlusive rather than a signalling molecule.
1 targets · 1 pathways
Cholesterol
Skin barrierC27H46O · 386.7 g/mol
Cholesterol is one of the three lipid classes of the stratum corneum lamellae, alongside ceramides and free fatty acids.
2 targets · 2 pathways
Linoleic acid
Skin barrierC18H32O2 · 280.4 g/mol
Linoleic acid is an essential polyunsaturated fatty acid required for acylceramide formation in the epidermal barrier.
2 targets · 2 pathways
Urea
HumectantCH4N2O · 60.06 g/mol
Urea is a small natural moisturising factor component that is humectant at low concentrations and keratolytic at high concentrations.
2 targets · 2 pathways
Glycerin
HumectantC3H8O3 · 92.09 g/mol
Glycerol is a small polyol humectant that also moves through aquaporin channels, linking it to keratinocyte water handling.
1 targets · 1 pathways
Allantoin
Skin barrierC4H6N4O3 · 158.12 g/mol
Allantoin is a purine metabolite used as a soothing and keratolytic agent. Its cutaneous mechanism is less well characterised than its physical effects.
1 targets · 1 pathways
Epigallocatechin gallate
AntioxidantC22H18O11 · 458.4 g/mol
EGCG is the major green tea catechin, studied for antioxidant and UV-response biology mainly in cell and animal models.
2 targets · 2 pathways
Alpha-lipoic acid
AntioxidantC8H14O2S2 · 206.33 g/mol
Alpha-lipoic acid is a dithiol cofactor of mitochondrial dehydrogenase complexes and an amphipathic redox agent.
2 targets · 2 pathways
Coenzyme Q10
AntioxidantC59H90O4 · 863.3 g/mol
Coenzyme Q10 is a lipid-soluble electron carrier of the mitochondrial respiratory chain and a membrane antioxidant.
1 targets · 2 pathways
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate
RetinoidC26H38O3 · 398.6 g/mol
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate is a retinoic acid ester marketed as a cosmetic retinoid. Public mechanistic data are thinner than for retinol.
1 targets · 1 pathways
Beta-glucan
Botanical(C6H10O5)n
Beta-glucans are polysaccharides recognised by innate immune receptors such as dectin-1, which is why they appear in soothing and barrier research.
1 targets · 1 pathways
Ectoin
Skin barrierC6H10N2O2 · 142.16 g/mol
Ectoin is a bacterial compatible solute studied as a protein- and membrane-stabilising osmolyte in skin models.
1 targets · 1 pathways
GHK tripeptide
PeptideC14H24N6O4 · 340.38 g/mol
GHK is a copper-binding tripeptide identified in human plasma, studied for matrix gene expression in fibroblast models.
2 targets · 1 pathways
Sodium PCA
HumectantC5H6NNaO3 · 151.1 g/mol
Sodium PCA is the sodium salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, one of the most abundant natural moisturising factors generated from filaggrin.
2 targets · 1 pathways
Zinc oxide
MineralZnO · 81.38 g/mol
Zinc oxide is an inorganic UV filter. Its protective mechanism is physical and chemical attenuation of UV photons rather than a biological pathway.
1 targets · 1 pathways
Hydroquinone
PigmentationC6H6O2 · 110.11 g/mol
Hydroquinone is a phenolic tyrosinase substrate analogue. It is restricted or prescription-only in many jurisdictions and is included for mechanistic context.
2 targets · 1 pathways